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Glove/fuse box removal for towbar wiring?

9K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  xtrailman 
#1 ·
Greetings guys.
It took a couple of hours to fit the tow bar and run the cables up to the passenger footwell, but I can't see how to get the glove box out so I can get the fuse box out to repopulate the various fuses and connect to the canbus.
I found the torx screws along the top of the box, and those along the bottom. There's another torx behind the dash end panel, bit the box seems unwilling to get out....does the CD/unit need to come out first? Is there any hidden torx?!
TIA
 
#5 ·
As mentioned piggy back fuse holders are much easier and cause less potential issues, I would be careful if you go the route of removing the fuse box in case you cause dodgy connections ect.
 
#7 ·
Just use an addafuse into a spare unused slot with power on it I do that with my dashcams and is easy and tidy.
Only a fey keen person or a fool would pull whole fusebox out..

Dont your Tigs have a wiring termination in right side rear quarter to hook the towbar module into.
Im pretty sure mine has
 
#8 ·
Hillbilly said:
Dont your Tigs have a wiring termination in right side rear quarter to hook the towbar module into.
Im pretty sure mine has
They do, for the towing module. However European tow bars also have permanent and switched live pins to power things like the fridge and charge the caravan battery. Being non universal wires need to be taken through to the front to hook into power.
 
#9 ·
Tricky said:
Hillbilly said:
Dont your Tigs have a wiring termination in right side rear quarter to hook the towbar module into.
Im pretty sure mine has
They do, for the towing module. However European tow bars also have permanent and switched live pins to power things like the fridge and charge the caravan battery. Being non universal wires need to be taken through to the front to hook into power.
From several years of caravanning I would never hook up either a fridge or a van battery using just car wiring. I had a 25ft 3000kg caravan with 2 x 100ah batteries and I had a 2nd battery in the tow vehicle an used 6 G ( 6B&S) cable for both the fridge and batteries.Ran from a separate fuse block from the 2nd battery. Fridge was a 186 L fridge freezer. Cables went straight from battery to 2 Anderson plugs to the van.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/6-gauge-figure-8-power-cable-sold-per-metre/p/WH3067

Anything much lighter would have too much voltage drop to be wprthwhile. Even the cabling to my Waeco fridge in the bck of the tow vehicle had 6mm cable to it
 
#10 ·
Ideally you want 10mm in both car and caravan for minimum volt drop if you have a 170 watt fridge.
I've not touched the cars wiring as its factory fitted, but i have fitted a 6mm cable in parallel with the caravans existing 4mm, cost £17 for the cable DIY.
 
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